Fibre, dyes, seams and bands: Grave 41/2016 and the Ravattula costume reconstruction

Abstract

<p>A woman’s grave rich in textiles and likely dated to the early 13th century was found in 2016 at Ravattula Ristimäki cemetery in southwestern Finland. Fragments of woollen textiles woven in 2/2 twill revealed a new type of dress compared with previously excavated textiles from Iron Age graves. Wool fibre analyses indicated that the pieces of clothing were woven from hairy to coarse hairy wool types. The dye analyses (HPLC-DAD) presented blue dye which was detected in a shawl, an apron, and tablet-woven bands most likely originating from woad (Isatis tinctoria L). Madder (Rubia tinctorum L), which produces a red colour, was identified in the fulled cloth of the hose and fastening bands. The grave textiles represent both the older traditions of Iron Age costume with the blue, bronze-spiral-decorated apron and shawl, and some new elements of medieval fashions like the red hose and a dress sewn together from several pieces.<br></p>